Phou Si Mountain

Phou Si is a mountain located in the center city with a wide area and an exceptional panoramic view of Luang Prabang. Especially in the evening, Chom Phou Si is a popular spot to see the sunset for tourists from many countries, which is a must-do when visiting Luang Prabang. Phou Si has four entry points: in front of the National Museum, at the back next to the Nam Khan (Khan River), to the north from Joumkhong Village on the side of Phou Si, and walking through Jingland Hotel to the west. The front entry point tends to be the most popular route up to the top with only 328 steps along with full of frangipani trees (Champa trees).

The former name of Phou Si was known as Phou Suang, and then changed to Phou Si. In the past, Phou Si area was a sacred forest area according to the beliefs of the ancient people. Later, a Buddhist hermit (Leu Si) came to live in this mountain, which the villagers named the mountain as Phou Pha Leu Si or Phou Si, according to the legend of Khun Boulom before it was Luang Prabang. The story of Phaya Thaen who came down to the earth has it that, there were two-brother hermits named Ammara Leu Si and Yothika Leu Si who went to find the place for establishing a village and then saw a large mountain where they worshipped (Buang Suang) Thep Phayada (the heavenly spirit), which came up with a name as Phou Suang. The name was also pronounced differently to be Phou Suang or Phou Xuang (now Phou Si). After that, the two-brother hermits established a village and district, as well as built a Buddhist temple on the mountain where enshrined the footprint of the Buddha. When Giant Nantha (Xua people) came to stay on this mountain, the name was called by merging Nantha Kang Hee and Naga named Phou Nantha Kang Hee Sisattanark. There were the 15 tribes of Naga in front of Luang Prabang National Museum, and the one of them named Thao Chaichamnong who protects the footprint of the Buddha became Sisattanark, the keeper of Buddhism in Phou Si. Therefore, it was agreed to build a castle for the king who was going to rule this village as a support for the Buddhist Khotama (cow) in the forthcoming. By the end of the 18^th century to the beginning of the 14^th century, 13 Buddhist temples were built around Phou Si: (1) Wat Xieng Ngam or Wat Pa Fang, (2) Wat Pha Phoutthabath Wat Si Phoutthabath, (3) Wat Pa Khe, (4) Wat Sao Liao, (5) Wat Chom Si, (6) Wat Pa Thiap, (7) Wat Pa Houak, (8) Wat Thay Phou, (9) Wat Ho Khuang, (10) Wat That Neurng, (11) Wat Kharm Liam, (12) Wat Pa Maeo, and (13) Wat Thammothayaram (Wat Tham Thao or Wat Tham Phou Si). Pha That Chom Si was established in 1804 when King Anourouth reigned the Kingdom of Lane Xang for 8 years, as called Pha That Lak Muang or Phat That Phou Si, meaning as the sacred place where the local people and Lao people pay respect to and worship the Phou Si. It is believed that the center of Phou Si had a deep hole to the core of the earth as the habitat of the Naga who protects the mountain. For this reason, the people of Luang Prabang have held ceremonies to worship the Naga like the Naga procession, which has held on the last day of Lao New Year festival, and this tradition has been inherited and practiced to this day. Besides this, what the people have to practice on Lao New Year every year is that they would held the 15^th Naga procession from Pha That Chom Si down to Nong Ket (a pond) on the third day of Lao New Year, in which the procession would take around Nong Ket for three rounds and then place the Naga on the edge of Nong Ket with turning the Naga head to the north. The people who came to the procession would wear black clothes, tie a red cloth around their head and tie a belt, with holding lanterns to show the light of Lao New Year. Then there was a dance to celebrate the Naga (the beliefs of Lao People in the Naga since ancient times according to the Chronicle of the Lao People). Today, it is called Fone Lam Khom or lantern dances and there is another dance like Phalak Phalam procession dance, which have been performed every year during the Lao New Year celebrations.[1][2]

Phou Si Stupa is 10.50 meter wide and 21 meter high. The base of Phou Si Stupa is a square-like shape, and the stupa is over the three bases decorated with small lotus-shaped stupas at every corner. The stupa has a pyramid-like shape adorned with four bronze relics of seven layers. The other side of the stupa to the north has a small temple of Phou Si with shrines and a drum tower, where people could worship and pray to the sacred things as they wish. However, the drum tower is only accessible to those in charge of striking as the drum will be played at a specific time and no entry without permission. From Wat Pa Houak to Chom Phou Si, it was initially built by King Anourouth in 1804 with a basic stairway led to the top. Therefore, the stairways were rebuilt by using bricks and lime mortar during the reign of Sisavang Vong. Then, the first restoration was carried out in 1914 led by Chao Kom Khun Duangchanh, Head of Religion Council Office in the Royal Palace. The second restoration of stupa and stairways was carried out during the war of the French Institute of Burapha, led by Mr. Charcs Battcur in 1962.

There is a unique and important tradition of Luang Prabang on the top of Phou Si, which is the tradition of playing drum on the top of Phou Si. A man was assigned by the people of Luang Prabang who would be responsible for striking the big drum, big gong and hi-hat, at a specific time especially at noon, according to strict traditions. This big drum is 110 cm wide and 175 cm long, which is covered with cow skin. Playing the drum on the top of Phou Si has four 4 times: at a specific time, on Buddhist holy day, for notification, and in emergency cases. There are many traditional ceremonies that have been practiced for a long time and are associated with Phou Si, which the people of Luang Prabang have paid respect to, strictly followed and performed every year according to 12 traditional rites and 14 familial norms. Each month of the year has the traditional ceremonies called the 12 traditional rites, for example, Boun Mahasard or Boun Phavet is usually held in the 4^th Lunar Month, which has been practiced since ancient times and become a tradition today, and some places hold it as an annual festival. Boun Mahasard or Boun Phavet is usually held on the waxing moon of 14^th or 15^th Night of the 11^th Lunar Month, which is different from the national festival held in other temples. For Phou Si, the people hold the religious ceremony to worship Luk Ban Luk Muang (sacred pillars) and ancestors who built Pha That Chom Si through chanting, praying and listening to the sermon. In addition to Boun Mahasard in Phou Si, there are other traditional festivals associated with Pha That Chom Si as follows:

Phou Si alms-giving and rice offerings refer to placing sticky rice cakes and sweets along the stairways from That Luang to Pha That Chom Si, which are celebrated on the last day of Lao New Year festival as New Year’s Day. After giving alms to monks from different temples, a large number of young men and women will come to give the offerings and pray consigned merits to the deceased ancestors, relatives, friends and others, in order to bring good things, happiness and success in their lives for the future.[3]

Today, there are only five temples around Phou Si: Wat Pa Houak, Wat Pa Fang, Wat Pa Khe, Wat Si Phoutthabath and Wat Tham Phou Si. Unfortunately, the eight temples had disappeared including Wat Sao Liao, Wat Chom Si, Wat Pa Thiap, Wat Thay Phou, Wat Ho Khuang, Wat That Neurng, Wat Kharm Liam and Wat Pa Maeo. The history of each remain temples is as follows:

[1] Mr. Bounkong Khoutthao, Deputy Director of the Luang Prabang World Heritage Office, provided information on the history of ancient sites according to the book on the history of temples around Pha That Phou Si.

[2] Mr. Norseng Vongdueane, Deputy Director of Culture Section, Information, Culture and Tourism Division, according to the book on the history of temples around Pha That Phou Si.

[3] Chao Khammanh Vongkodrattana: The temple legends of Luang Prabang.

• Open daily 06:00AM – 18:00PM (Depend on the seasonal)
• Tickets: Laotian 10.000k/person (under age of 7 years old free entrance)
• Tickets: Foreigner 30.000k/person.

Located on the main street about 5 minutes walk from the Tourist Information Center. There are 3 different ways but the entrance is infront of Luang Prabang National Museum.

it’s important to remember that bikinis and other very revealing swimwear are also frowned upon and public displays of affection, from hand-holding to more intimate gestures like kissing, are considered crude.

Please also note that visitors are expressly requested not to walk around with shirts off or in just bikini tops. This is considered rude (and the individual in question is assumed to have questionable morals and status).